![]() Bon appetite.The last lithium cell (a.k.a. I would just note all the Factory OEM settings before you start modifying, and be very attentive not to accidentally reset sine wave type, magnet sensor numbers, and wheel diameters. There is a "Max Speed setting/factory limit" in the 16 customizable Power Assist Settings (PAS). ![]() If your display is the LCD-SW900 below.pdf instruction manual is attached. Software: As for the DMHC controller power assist settings themselves, do a search for the display type and model you have, download the pdf, and it will guide you. ![]() Switching to an 11t will give you 21% improvement in mechanical leverage when in full power assist. If you can change a tire, you can definitely swap that out for an 11t-28t (generally flat terrain) or 11-34t (some hills) freewheel for around $30-40 - do a search on here (you'll also need the 12-splined Park Tool FR1.3 for $10 or so - I'd pass on the $30 chainwhip, and just use an old rag). Let your wallet be your I'm not very familiar with the Slane Ajax 48v fat Tire bike, or DMHC controllers, but it looks like there are two things you can do.first, put that controller back together, then: Hardware: Count the teeth on the smallest, outermost, "top gear" on rear freewheel and I'll bet you a nickel it's Shimano's ubiquitous 14t freewheel. These will drop right in place where your 500w now lives, and because you've already installed the controller, you'll be able to feed the bigger motors with the amount of power they'll be looking for. If not, there are 750w and even a 1000w Bafang motors available (buy them pre laced with the correct wheel size - cheap). You MAY be able to get away with the motor you have at that point. New controller installed, there is no more bottleneck between the battery and the motor. If you understand HAL sensors, this should be a pretty easy job for you. The controllers are available pre wired with Bafang motor connectors - but make sure you are looking at the RIGHT one! With the correct motor and display connectors assured, you are left matching up the PAS sensor, the throttle, and brake switches. Controller and LCD3 display for instance, should be less than 100 bucks. ![]() Again, there are several displays, all pretty much state of the art, and they are used to set up the controller. The KT controllers are available on the after market several ways (don't buy Bolton's kit unless you are working on a Rad), and are generally sold with a new display as part of the deal. There's an endless supply of user reports available. The reason I mention that is that they are VERY popular with those that bought them. This controller is sold by Bolton as a hop up kit for the RAD bikes. For instance, when you ask for power, it's there NOW. They're user "configurable" to a degree that generally leaves you with a bike set up YOUR way. Really want to get into understanding how to upgrade the motor and controller and how this all works together if you could point me in the right direction? I have a iGo Discovery Atwater that has the same motor and 48v and it has way better pickup and power on hills so I am assuming its just a generic controller issue. Can you recommend a good site that sells controllers and screens that will help me unlock these features? It looks like it's a standard battery pack and mounting system how would I go about upgrading it? I say this because I noticed today when ridding it that it has no power on hills and has no get up and go. This is a fat tire mountain bike so maybe its assumed that it will be used off road.ฤก00% get what you are saying about the motor and controller over heating, I think the best course of action here is to upgrade the motor and controller and a new display. In Canada we are supposed to be limited to 32km/h but for some reason I think this controller is set to off road mode which is 42 km/h. Thanks actually after comminuting to work on it today it's not too bad.
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